DeWalt’s own claims is getting destroyed by private torque testers, where these tools are over exceeding- by A LOT.
THE TORQUE TEST CHANNEL on YouTube puts them all on his fancy dyno.
The 900 is doing like 1600 lbs-ft of torque
The 891 600 and 800 in reverse.
They are killing it in everything!

The real answer is whatever batteries you’re invested in. But DeWalt has been great with warranty as well’ Milwaukee is kind of stuck with their 18V batteries

Yup. Great info. Its kinda nice to know i wasnt just me.
Unfortunately i fo have the dewalt set-

According to Dewalt UK, here are specs for the Dewalt DCD985:

Max Torque (Soft): 38 Nm
Max Torque (Hard): 80 Nm

Pls help

Comparar com o que? Só pode fazer isto dentro da mesma marca.

Unfortunately, it is easy to confuse watts with uwo. Since most engineers aren’t real creative with acronyms, and just smart enough to give marketing something to promote, I’d guess that uwo stands for Useable work output or unit watts output. The number they give is never followed with any label, which leaves us guessing the real words behind the acronym and if it’s per unit watt, then the numerator also needs to be watts or without unit such as revolutions or radians. Fortunately, the European consumer agencies weren’t impressed, and if you search European sites you can find torque numbers. This is how I learned that my old 18v actually could produce more torque than the early brushless models. Which is why I didn’t buy into the 20v system until this year.

Torque at zero rpm on the new drills, if you have it truly locked up is zero because the power control software won’t allow self destructive balls to the wall power, which could easily lead to battery fires and lawsuits and lost reputation.

This would be very useful if torque ratings from manufacturers were given at a specific rpm, but they’re all at 0 rpm, that I know of, since that’s where peak torque of an electric motor is.
So if I plug that in with, say, 250ftlb,
(250 x 0) ÷ 5252 = 0

That’s not helpful at all.

Now if I’ve got an impact that does 250 ftlb at 200 rpm,
(250 x 200) ÷ 5252 = 9.5hp (~7000W)
That’s awesome, but no electric impact or drill is pulling that off.

Woo!

Dewalt rates their cordless drills in UWO. Their impact drivers and impact wrenches are spec’ed in inch-pounds or foot-pounds.

373 UWO is 0.50 HORSEPOWER (1HP = 746W)

Hello! some recommendations for hammer drill or driver drill, average use?
Thanks in advance.

May I have your opinion on the 20v max system??

You can’t reliably use that as a means to measure torque as the bolts themselves are variable in the amount of torque they can handle being applied to them, lol.

To remove variables you have to remove production made inconsitencies and many companies specializing in measurement devices go to extremely long lengths to do just that, having ideal setup testing conditions as well as zeroing out procedures just to account for the variances in their OWN measuring devices.

Simplest methodology will produce the most variable testing results. Might as well try to test bolt torque in field applications by using springs as it will give similar, all over the place, readings.

Tests need to remove screw(/aka bolt) induced variations, so a non threaded rod far exceding the strength requirements needed to test for typical load applications coupled with a means to load the rod with resistence and a means to accurately and precisely measure everything through the startup to stopping phases of work aplication.

ie, use another drill rewired to produce quantitative and qualitative output mesurable across all other drill testing, then procedurally zeroed out throughout the testing phases.

Currently, on jobsites, m18 is killing it. Than Makita (excellent system, I’ve got a gazillion, but I’m migrating to m18). Dewalt is dying off on jobsites, as people compare to other tools, but still has holdovers.

These days I’m actually shocked whenever a dewalt tool is quality. And yet I was 100% dewalt almost in 2005.

In the real world, the plastic gears in my dewalt 18 impact melted when I built a deck. Repaired under warranty, but even the dewalt repair shop at the time had nothing good to say about the interior parts. That’s when all jobsites started switching to Makita in eastern Mass. Now if I need power I go hunting for who took the m18 brushless.

However, I’m not sure DeWalt knows what a watt is.

They incorrectly rate watt-hours on their batteries. Yes you can measure 20V and yes you can measure 5.0 amp-hours. But there is no possible way to get 100 watt-hours out of that battery because the voltage will average 18 or less over the discharge.

You see fundamentally, human beings are not rational. No-one has ever actually needed a sports car, for example. Yet I have one. It’s not the most economical, it’s not even the fastest. It’s definitely not the most reliable. But it’s the one I wanted. Cars are a good example. People have mentioned how cars often are specced with torque curves. But I don’t believe anyone would choose between, for example, a Lamborghini and a Ferrari based only on the torque curve. So many other things influence us. Which is the tool we will get the most satisfaction out of using? That’s a really important question for me.

So is UWO or power a better discriminator? Probably each is better is some situations. I do find it frustrating that they can’t be compared across brands. Slightly. But this is at the root of why what Stuart does here is so valuable. Choosing the right tool is hard. Help from people like Stuart is valuable to us, and that’s why we read here, and probably other tool-related websites as well.

Personally, I do use the specs to choose cordless tools, but like this. I am bought into M12 and M18. I have one DeWalt 8V max tool. Typically, I will look only at tools on one of these platforms. I’ll use the specs to find the right point in the extensive range (at least of red tools) for the task in hand. Sometimes, I’ll use the specs to weigh up whether it’s worth the cost increment for the next model up. And that works well enough. So the specs do help.

A while ago, I did jump platforms. I had a range of perfectly good yellow tools, and a set of old, broken NiCd batteries (remember them?). It wasn’t worth getting new batteries, so I sold all the tools on eBay and chose another platform. Then, the reviews were vital. I read a lot of Stuart’s back catalog of articles, and many other people’s too. It was really important that I chose the right platform for me. I chose red. Yellow would, I’m sure, have been just fine, but cost, availability and price/performance (in a very general sense) at that moment were the deciders. I don’t regret it, but I’m sure 20V Max would have left me feeling just as good. Since then, choosing the next tool has been relatively easy, and specs have mattered. But torque is just as good for me as UWO would have been.

My final thought is that there really is no perfect answer. Specs help, but they won’t ever lead us to the best tool. (Example – my most powerful drill is a country mile ahead of any of my others. 1500W! Wow! But I hate it viscerally. It is cheap junk and I begrudge every one of the pennies I spent on it. I actually hurts me to use it, it is so brutal ad hard to control.) We should relax, be content that like every other human being, we are not machines and choose based on subjective as well as objective criteria. And then spend time enjoying the choices we make – so long as Stuart helps us make the right choices for us!